Pontefract
I have passed through Pontefract many, many times over the years but September 2008 is the first time I've ever stopped there. I don't know that I was expecting much but it is still a very pleasant market town. Despite being much smaller than Rotherham, neither the market nor the town centre are as decayed as much Rotherham, though people we spoke to thought it was not a patch on what it used to be a few years ago. The road system through town is a bit frayed but there are plenty of short term parking areas and a huge town centre car park. Also the large retail area is only a stone's throw from the old centre and places like Tesco, Morrisons and the like have pay and display car parks.
Pontefract is the district of Wakefield, West Yorkshire and has a population of about 29,000. The original settlement mentioned in the Domesday Book was called Tanshelf, which is now part of the bigger town. According to legend from the Middle Ages the entourage of a bishop was so heavy it caused the bridge it was crossing to break and from then on the place was called Broken Bridge or Pontefract. There are the remains of the old Saxon church at Tanner's Row, small and little more than the footings.
Pontefract Castle was built the end of the 11th C., first in wood and later in stone. The castle became a major stronghold of whoever was in power in the North of England and consequently the town became wealthy. It is set to one side and not actually visible from the town so we had a bit of trouble finding it. There has been a market there since the Middle Ages. The Buttercross was rebuilt in the 18th Century on the site of the Dark Age St. Oswald's Cross. Even though several have shut down recently the large number of public houses (not unusual in a market town) is still a feature of the centre. The town still contains some very fine and some very decrepit old buildings. For along time Pontefract was the centre of the liquorice growing trade: the famous Pomfret cakes were long made here. Though this has now ceased there is still a liquorice festival every June. There is a small but interesting local museum where the staff could not have been more helpful.
So what else is there to see? The various religious foundations established in the Middle Ages were closed down in the reign of Henry VIII and disappeared. The Dominican Friary St Richard's in the area now occupied by Pontefract General Infirmary, and the Cluniac Priory of St John's which was at Monkhill. However the Hermitage of St Richard's, cut deep into rock near the present-day hospital, can be visited but only on an organised trip. There are two churches, one in the current centre, one near the castle which is in a bit of a state, but we did not visit either.
Like all towns there are ghastly parts of Pontefract. The Pedant was very chary, not to say downright difficult, about visiting as he thought there would be nothing there. As it was we both enjoyed ourselves and found plenty to see and do. Market days are Wednesdays and Saturdays (General), Fridays (Fruit and Veg, flowers, fish).
There is a large park called Pontefract Park with sports pitches and a golf course, tennis, bowls, putting, 9 hole pitch and putt and a play area. There is a lake, which is popular with anglers and rowing boats may be hired throughout the summer. There are also woodland and wetland areas. Pontefract Park is also home to the racecourse which holds 16 meetings a year.
Pontefract Castle
A vast set of estates in Yorkshire later called the Honour of Pontefract were granted to Ilbert de Lacey by William The conqueror. He began to build a castle on a rocky prominence at Pontefract abut 1070. This was later rebuilt in stone to become one of the strongest fortifications in the north of England. Kings and princes visited here; Richard II was disposed of here. It was also used as royal prison with James I of Scotland and Charles Duc d'Orleans two of the more important prisoners who were incarcerated here. Long after other castle were abandoned Pontefract was maintained and improved.
During the English Civil War Pontefract Castle held out for the Royalist cause. There were three sieges by Parliamentary forces during which time much damage was done to the town. After the castle surrendered in 1649 it was comprehensively dismantled and much of the stone was sold. You've heard the expression "One of the Ruins that Cromwell Knocked about a Bit"; well this is one of them and there is not a deal left. It is free to visit, and a quiet pleasant place to wander around but it is hard to get any feeling of the grandeur that was Pontefract Castle, especially as most of the remaining walls are now heath and safetily tucked away behind very awful wire railings.