Chatsworth
The first building at Chatsworth of which any record has survived was begun by Sir William Cavendish and his wife, that redoubtable woman, Elizabeth Hardwick in 1552, three years after they had bought the estate. It filled exactly the site of the square part of the present house. But there were great differences between then and now. The house faced eastwards, turning its back upon its village, which then reached almost to its gates; and for this reason the park lay wholly east of the building on the hillside. Here still stands Cavendish's Hunting Tower. Between the house and the river was a walled garden, much of it covered by seven large ponds or reservoirs.
These were designed to take the floods when water overflowed the wide S-bend which checked its passage below the confluence of the Barbrook with the Derwent. In the north-west angle of the garden stood an ancient earthwork, guardian of the ford. This was enclosed in a building now called Queen Mary's Bower, because, it is said, the Queen of Scots was allowed to rest there, when a prisoner in the hands of the Earl of Shrewsbury, the last and the greatest of Bess of Hardwick's four husbands. Cavendish was the only one by whom Bess had a family. Their second son was created Earl of Devonshire in 1618.
Elizabethan Chatsworth survived intact till near the end of the 17th century but in 1686 the fourth Earl, soon to become the first Duke, began to pull it down. At first he had meant to rebuild only the South front but enjoyed building so much that he could not stop. After the South front he rebuilt the East (1691-96). Then he decided he had done enough, after three years spent in erecting outbuildings, harmonizing the old and the new styles and laying out his new garden, he commissioned Kniff to paint a careful picture of his great achievement. But hardly was the picture finished when once again the itch to build proved irresistible: he rebuilt the West front 1699-1702) and, after another brief pause, the small remaining section of the North. The new Chatsworth was completed just before he died (August 1707). William Talman was the architect of the new South and East fronts. The West and North were probably designed by Thomas Archer, aided by the Duke himself.
In the West wing, guided by instinct, the Duke made a change of immense significance. Only two years earlier he had begun new Stables and Offices on that side of Chatsworth, thus proving that for him it was still the back; but now, by the richness of its facade, he marked it unmistakably as the front.
Fifty years passed before the vast implications of this change of front were realized. Then (1755-63) the fourth Duke worked them out in a single comprehensive scheme, the central purpose of which was to clear the front of all obstructions, leaving the view uninterrupted. The course of the river was straightened, so that the ugly ponds could be removed. The West Garden was uprooted and the bridge and mill were demolished and rebuilt elsewhere. The new buildings and stables were designed by James Paine. In the house itself the main entrance was moved from the West front to the North. The former Kitchen became the Entrance Hall and a new Kitchen was built on the upper side of the new Entrance Court. At the same time all the land on the west side of the river, including all that could be seen of Edensor from the windows of the new front, was stripped of buildings and converted into parkland. Thus in essentials Chatsworth began to assume its present aspect.
I am going to forbear making any comment on this piece of upper class high-handedness but I'll leave you to think about how much you would enjoy being turned out of your home so as not to spoil the view.
A pause of half a century was followed by another reconstruction. In 1818 the young sixth Duke began his life's work. This was to weld into a single whole the six separate sections which had comprised the first Duke's piecemeal building. The corridors around the Court-yard were remodelled and rebuilt and a new North wing was added. The village of Edensor suffered further changes. The old High Street in the valley bottom was razed to the ground (all but one small house) and the remnant of the village on the further slope, clustered around its ancient church, was practically rebuilt (1839). Finally, the church itself was replaced by the present building, designed by Sir Gilbert Scott. This was consecrated in 1866.
Review
Chatsworth is something over an hour's drive from Rotherham out in the playground of the Peak District in Derbyshire. As stately homes go it is very stately indeed. The house is situated near Rowsley and was home to the 11th Duke and Duchess of Devonshire who worked very hard at making it pay. I think that the 12th Duke is currently in residence.
I have visited two or is it three times? I've only been the house once: when you've seen it once that's quite enough for some time. Its rather like eating a large box of truffles, rich and tasty but it will be some time before you repeat the experience. The gardens are always worth another look. This is the cascade in the gardens, a beautiful fall of water powered, I understand, entirely by gravity. Even in the winter there is something worthwhile in the gardens but I think that my favourite time is bluebell season.
A good day out!
Information
The house, garden, farmyard and adventure playground are open to the public from the end of March to the end of October each year. The winter is used for cleaning and renovation but is open over Christmas and the New Year I believe.
The park is open all year.
There are also behind the scene tours and events. Tours can be specially organised for groups.
Visit the website for up to date information about prices.
Chatsworth plays host to a number of special events through the year. In May there are International Horse Trials and an Angling Fair. In approximately the last the last weekend in August there is a large and very popular country fair.
I am unsure what facilities are available for those with mobility problems or wheelchairs. Check before you go.